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Choosing a Breed |
One major reason for their popularity would have to be their ability to adapt. Cats thrive anywhere people do, easily adjusting to a variety of lifestyles and living spaces. They are almost obsessively clean and fastidious and don't require much in the way of exercise. To one degree or another, they also possess some rather remarkable character traits that, for the most part, make them all the more endearing. First, there's that legendary curiosity. Then their self-sufficiency. Absolute unpredictablity. Keen intelligence. Bravery. Independence. Aloofness. And an extrasensory perception (ESP) that suggests they may be able to feel the energy pulsing off other living things. For all they share in common, cats can differ markedly from each other as well. For instance, some cats are natural hunters and will do anything to escape the house to stay out all night, while others like nothing better than cuddling up in bed with their owners, hardly stirring until morning. There are also finicky eaters. Timid cats who hide away all day. Cats who can't wait to go for walks with their owners. And cats who are more than content to just lie around looking pretty.
There are also physical differences. Some breeds can be large, tipping the scales at 8-10 kilograms, while others are much smaller, weighing in at a modest 2-3 kilograms. Some are long and sleek, others compact and sturdy. Some are magnifcent jumpers, others what are known as 'floor' cats. Some have a layer of fur which amounts to next to nothing, others wear thick, luxuriant coats of flowing strands which can take hours every day to maintain. Because every cat is so individualistic, it's especially important to take the time to choose one who's right for you and your lifestyle. A cat's personality, age, and appearance, as well as the kinds of pets you already have at home, are all things you should keep in mind when making your selection.
The other half of our feline patients are purebreds, which can be divided basically into two types: short-haired breeds and long-haired. If you go for a long-haired breed, you should bear in mind that you face hours of grooming; in some cases, many, many hours of grooming. Still, there's no denying that a well-looked-after Persian or Chinchilla can look absolutely spectacular. People buying purebreds do so for several reasons: they just like the look of a certain variety, they want to breed or show them, or they're after certain characteristics. While it's quite correct that certain breeds do tend to share specific traits, you can't count on it. For instance, a cat of a normally mellow breed may be high-strung. Or vice versa. Now that you've been warned, we're willing to make a few general statements to help you find the most appropriate cat for your lifestyle. If you like a highly responsive cat who enjoys interacting with you, take a look at an Oriental breed such as the Siamese or Tonkinese. If you want a cat that can be active to the point of frenetic, Siamese along with Abyssinian, Cornish Rex or Balinese could be just what you're after. If, on the other hand, you have a busy family, you should probably consider a breed that is easy-going and child-friendly like Persians or Burmese. If you are a professional person who spends long hours away from home, a cat that craves lots of attention would likely be a poor choice. Stay away from Bengals and Siamese; instead consider a Russian Blue or Birman. And if someone in your family has asthma or is allergic to cats, felines with little or no fur, such as the Cornish Rex or Devon Rex, can limit reactions in many cases. By the way, one of the more contemporary ways to find out what cat best suits your situation is to try a few of the interactive guides found online. We strongly recommend that you fill out several forms so that you can reach a consensus. Just type 'choosing a cat' or some similar phrase into a search engine like Google or Yahoo and take it from there. Here's a little bit more about the short-haired breeds we see most often:
And now the more common long-haired breeds:
Gently peel back the lips. The mouth and gums should be pink with no indication of ulcers or sores. The coat should be glossy with no bare spots, dry skin, dandruff or any sign of external parasites. A cat that appears too thin or has a protruding belly could well have internal parasites or some other medical disorder. If possible, check whether the cat has normal, well-formed faeces. Watch the cat or kitten interact. If it appears active, bright, responsive, rambunctious and eager to join in play, you can be reasonably sure that it's physically sound. Naturally, it should also be friendly and comfortable with people. You don't want a cat that frequently runs and hides or sleeps more than normal. Once a kitten has been weaned from its mother (usually at about eight weeks of age), it is ready for adoption. Before accepting the new cat, you should ask questions about vaccinations, nutrition, parasite control, and grooming. As soon as possible after picking up your new kitten or cat, you should bring it to us so that we can carry out a physical examination. When you take your new cat home, don't be surprised if the first thing yours does is scoot to the closest hiding place. Most cats introduced to a new environment tend to be shy at first. But they'll adapt in no time. One further note here. If you are willing to take on the added responsibility of adopting a cat/kitten with special health conditions, please make sure you obtain its medical history, medications and proper treatment/care. The next step is a visit to PAH for a full examination. (You should do this even if adoptive agency doesn't insist on it.) Also, you should be aware that cats which seem extremely scared or aggressive could have been abused, tramautized or feral in the past. They could prove a real challenge.
Chances are, if you buy a cat from a breeder or pet store, it will already be microchipped. If not, it will only take us about five minutes to embed a tiny microchip ID (about the size of a grain of rice) under your new cat's skin between the shoulders. The process is not unlike getting an immunisation shot. In fact, it's usually less distressing. When your cat leaves, it will be possible for councils, vets and animal welfare organisations to identify him or her simply by using a scanner. For the full story, click Department of Local Government - Companion Animals Act.
To protect your cat against the more common viruses, you should ensure it has its first vaccination between six and eight weeks of age with the second and third at 12 and 16 weeks respectively. From then on, all cats require a 'booster' vaccination every 12 months to keep antibody levels up. Such protection is absolutely essential if your cat spends any time in a boarding cattery. In case you're wondering, we rarely see are reactions to these vaccinations. It's possible that your cat could feel a little 'off colour' for a day or two, and you might notice some swelling of the nose or tenderness where we made the injection. None of this is cause for concern, but if you see more serious signs, call us ASAP.
There's no social stigma attached to fleas becoming attached to your cat. Any cat with a social nature can pick up fleas. Fortunately, you can easily rid your cat of fleas by using a 'top-spot' formulation, which is usually just a matter of squeezing a few drop on the back of your cat's neck. For complete flea eradication, you will also have to treat your other pets and also the environment, especially your cat's bedding. (See the appropriate Fact Sheet.) Incidentally, sprays, powders, rinses and flea collars are no longer effective in killing fleas and thus cannot be recommended. However, even closely following the precautions and directions on the packaging of the flea control products might not be enough. You'll find several Fact Sheets that deal with these persistent pests. Paralysis ticks, which are a particular problem on the Northern Beaches, can be fatal to cats. During the warmer months you should check your cat daily and remove any ticks. If you do find a tick and your cat is affected, call us. For more about this dangerous pest, click see the relevant Fact Sheets and the dedicated page, Tick Advice. Worms - Cats need to be wormed regularly to control roundworms, hookworms and tapeworms which live in the intestine. This is easily done by using one of the many available preparations, either as tablets or top-spot preparations. You should worm kittens frequently (weekly to monthly) until they're six month old, then every three months for the rest of their lives. The exception would be mature cats who seldom stray from the yard. In this instance, an annual worming should be sufficient.
In general, kittens should be fed three times daily from six to 12 weeks, then twice daily until they're six months old. From then on a single meal each day is recommended. Additionally, we would suggest you train your cat from an early age to eat raw chicken necks for good dental health. Any changes to diet should be made gradually over several days. Water is essential to your cat's well-being and clean water must be available at all times. Your cat should have its own sturdy food and water bowls which should be placed near the sleeping area and cleaned regularly. De-sexing - If you don't want to use your cat for breeding, either he or she should be de-sexed around six months of age. Males become increasingly interested in females as they mature. If there's one nearby on heat, he'll leave evidence of his feelings in the form of foul-smelling urine sprayed around the house. Females are even more enthusiastic when it comes to their sex lives, copulating with more than one partner during heat periods. While cats' sexual affairs are over fairly quickly, they're accompanied by rather noisy yowling from both partners. Females on heat also roll around, making 'crying' sounds and acting like they're in pain. Cats are 'seasonally polyoestrus' and unless mated will come back on heat every three weeks for two to three months during autumn and spring. Naturally, successful mating will stop the process. But not for long. Many cats come back on heat within just three to four weeks of having a litter. Castration will prevent both roaming and that strong urine odour. Removing a female's ovaries and uterus (spaying) will eliminate both her heat cycles and prowling toms. Just call us to make an appointment. Coughing - Cats cough for a number of reasons, some serious, others less so. Sometimes the larynx and trachea are involved, other times the lungs. Here are the most common causes:
In particular, Burmese and Siamese cats seem to be especially susceptible to allergic bronchial disease, commonly known as 'feline asthma.' An allergen will cause a hypersensitivity reaction which, in turn, causes inflammation of the airway walls leading to constriction and the production of mucus. Common allergens include cigarette and fireplace smoke; carpet-cleaning agents; perfumes, deodorants and other aerosol products. Although X-rays are generally necessary to diagnose this disease, it's rarely life threatening. Whatever the cause of the coughing, when you bring your cat to us, we'll start by compiling a history, much of which we may already have in our computer files. We'll be particularly interested in abnormal signs you have noticed such as loss of appetite, weight loss and whether the cough is dry or accompanied by any discharge, especially blood. In addition to a thorough physical examination, we may recommend an X-ray. If we see a mass on the X-ray or if fluid buildup impedes our diagnosis, we may advise an ultrasound. As well, blood tests and specimens of cells and microorganisms from the airways could be necessary for us to make an accurate evaluation. To obtain these specimens, we will anaesthetise your cat and pass sterile water into the lungs. The recovered water usually contains clues to the cause of the coughing. If results prove inconclusive, we may move to a brochoscopy, heartworm tests or look for signs of heart disease. Naturally, treatment varies with the cause. We could prescribe anything from drugs to combat lungworm to antibiotics. Therapy for allergic bronchial asthma may involve cortisone, antibiotics, drugs to reduce airway constriction and sometimes an antihistamine. Cat flu - Cats catch colds too, complete with snuffles and sneezes. The difference is that most upper respiratory tract infections suffered by cats are caused by feline herpes virus or feline calicivirus. Because the vaccines we use include both these viruses, cat flu generally affects only unvaccinated cats. If you notice eye discharges, mouth ulcers and coughing, listlessness and a reluctance to eat and/or dehydration, your cat could have the flu. As with most viruses, the weaker the immune system, the more susceptible the cat. So young kittens, older debilitated cats and, of course, those that haven't been vaccinated are most at risk. In fact, young, unvaccinated kittens can die from so-called cat flu. In the absence of treatments that will kill these viruses, we'll use antibiotics when secondary bacterial infections are present. Otherwise, we can prescribe appetite-stimulating drugs, decongestants, multivitamins as well as fluids to prevent or address dehydration. You could also put your cat in a steamy environment (a small bathroom with the hot tap on will do nicely) to help nasal decongestion. Feeding highly flavoured foods like warmed sardines is a good way to encourage your cat to eat. Happily, if your cat is otherwise in good health, its immune system should overcome its cold fairly quickly. However, after recovery many cats become virus carriers, shedding the microorganisms either continuously or intermittently when stressed. They are 'chronic snufflers' and exhibit signs such as nasal discharge and sneezing, something that may have to be looked after for years. Feline Chlamydia. This is another respiratory infection, most commonly seen in kittens from five to nine months of age. It causes conjunctivitis and occasional sneezing or snuffling for one to three months. If detected, all cats in the household should be treated with antibiotics. Also, there is now a vaccine that we recommend for cats in breeding colonies or otherwise coming in contact with large numbers of fellow felines. Vomiting - In most cases when your cat throws up, it's nothing to be overly concerned about, especially when the vomitus contains grass or hair balls. You'll also probably see several abdominal contractions preceding the vomiting, but this too is normal. (Just ask Puss In Boots from Shrek 2.) Sometimes eating too quickly or dining on cockroaches or old, rotten meat will cause inflammation in the stomach, resulting in vomiting. But the problem usually goes away all by itself. As long as the vomiting has been going on for less than 24 hours and your cat seems otherwise well and is eating, you can often treat at home. First, don't offer any food for the next 24 hours to give the gut a chance to recover, then feed a low-fat, highly digestible diet for a few days. We suggest mixing small amounts of boiled or steamed chicken with rice for two to three days, then adding your cat's normal diet in gradually increasing proportions over the following three to four days. The time to worry is when vomiting continues past 24 hours, accompanied by lethargy, loss of appetite, restlessness and/or pain. Weight loss, repeated vomiting of fluid or bile, blood or diarrhoea are all signs of a more serious condition where it would be wise to call us. We will determine your cat's history and conduct a thorough examination. In less severe cases we'll likely treat your cat symptomatically with drugs to help control the vomiting and advise a low-fat diet. However, if we detect other signs of illness or the vomiting has become chronic, we will need to do further testing, starting with a blood work-up and X-rays. Occasionally, the inside of the stomach and intestines will have to be examined through an endoscope and a biospy taken. If we suspect a foreign body is obstructing the gastrointestinal tract, we will have to operate to remove it. We also may have to hospitalise your cat in order to control vomiting, combat dehydration and/or treat any other underlying disease. Constipation - If your cat is straining and/or in obvious pain while defecating or passes either small amounts of faeces or a diarrhoea-like fluid, it's almost certainly constipated. (Obstipation is when no defecation occurs.) If left untreated, your cat will become disinterested in food, lethargic and depressed. Other symptoms can include vomiting and dehydration. The most important thing to do is determine the cause of the constipation. It could be any of the following:
Treatment depends on the cause, frequently beginning with adding fibre (psyllium) to your cat's diet. This softens the faeces and helps prevent recurrent episodes. Sometimes the faeces must be removed from the colon by use of enemas, laxatives or drug therapy. In more serious cases we may have to sedate or anaesthetise your cat to manually break down the hard faeces after administering an enema of soapy water. If the condition has progressed to obstipation, we will have to repeat this procedure daily until all of the obstruction has been passed. Occasionally, obstipation requires surgical removal of a damaged part of the colon.
Dental Hygiene - By the time they reach three years of age, the great majority of cats have gum disease. You might notice persistent bad breath, red, inflamed gums and a brown and yellow discolouration on the teeth - particularly the molars. If left unchecked, it will cause the gums to recede, weakening the supporting structure of the teeth and leading to infections and tooth loss. Even worse, bacteria released into the bloodstream can end up in the kidneys and heart valves where they affect the general health of your cat. To help prevent gum disease you should provide your cat uncooked bones to chew. If bones cause vomiting and/or diarrhoea, you can try rawhide bones, Greenies, pigs' ears or chew toys such as Dental Kongs. While dry food is better than tinned, it won't completely clean your cat's teeth. Fortunately, new prescription diets (which we sell at PAH) have either a specially designed kibble which helps clean the tooth surfaces (Hills T/D Diet) or added enzymes to reduce plaque build-up (Eukanuba).
Infected or damaged teeth need to be extracted. Thankfully, we have both the equipment and skills to make it all happen with minimal discomfort for your cat. Most of our dental patients feel much better within days of having sore teeth removed. In extreme cases requiring tooth-capping and/or root canal work, you may have to take your dog to a specialised veterinary dentist. (Who will likely charge a specialist-sized fee.) Converting Cat Years - If you're like most cat owners, you're probably a little curious about how old your cat is compared to us humans. Many conversion tables use a very simple, if not simplistic, calculation: one cat year equals seven human years. But it's a bit more complicated than that. To find out more, just click Calculating a Cat's Life Span. Euthanasia - Because most cats live 15 to 19 years, you'll likely be faced with the decision of when to say goodbye to a cherished part of your life. Though you'll probably sense when the time is right, it will still be one of the hardest decisions you'll ever make. And you'll naturally want to be sure you're doing the right thing. To find out more about the process, please see the Fact Sheet titled 'Euthanasia.' If after reading it, you still have further questions about euthanasia, we urge you to contact us. |